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6 Reasons to Retire in Senegal
If you’re thinking about a slower, more intentional and affordable lifestyle, consider this West African country.
AARP (Getty,2)
On a Sunday afternoon, I sit and people-watch at Ngor Beach. Young boys in green shorts play soccer at the edge of the water. White pirogues, painted in a rainbow of colors, rock steadily in the waves, yet remain anchored. A breeze washes over my skin as I sip a Gazelle beer and wait for the sky to turn deep orange, purple at the edges. I think to myself, I could live here.
I’m not the only Black woman of a certain age who feels this way.
Having been to Senegal three times and spent months there, I regularly meet Black women visitors and expats who have had the same thought and many who have acted on it. There is a slowness to the days, even amid the buzz of commerce, traffic, and sand-covered streets. You can breathe deeply here. You can release some of the burden that life in the U.S. places on Blackness while still being within an eight-hour direct flight of New York. What follows is a closer look at what it actually takes to build a life there later in life.
Aisha Bullard, 53, moved her family to Senegal in 2020 after first visiting in 2018. “We had an amazing experience,” she told me on my Black Beyond Borders podcast. “It felt like home.” But she’s also honest about life and language adjustments. “My brain just is not working to process French and Wolof,” Aisha admits. “The weather can be hot sometimes, and technology can be challenging—especially when the Wi-Fi goes out.”
For Sonia Fall, 63, the move came unexpectedly. After being introduced to a Senegalese man through a colleague, she visited him once and, a few months later, moved permanently to marry him. What surprised her most wasn’t just the warmth of the people, but the ease of daily life. Living costs are manageable, routines are simple, and she realized she could live comfortably on her future retirement income while designing a quieter, more intentional chapter now, while she is still working remotely.
Living in Senegal, The Real Deal
Transplants to this culturally rich region give many reasons for its appeal. Six are key among them:
- Reasonable cost of living
- Warm climate
- A slower, more mindful pace
- A cultural sense of belonging
- Welcoming expat communities
- Adequate transportation
Senegal sits on the westernmost edge of Africa, bordered by the Atlantic Ocean, with the capital, Dakar, on a peninsula. The city is home to about 1.3 million people, with nearly four million across the metro area. Beyond Dakar, the Petite Côte—places like Somone and Saly—offers a slower, beach-forward lifestyle. Saint-Louis, four hours north, draws people looking for history, culture, and small-town rhythms.
The climate does not disappoint, with temperatures ranging from the mid-70s to the low 90s. The dry season runs from October through May, while the rainy season lasts from June to October; the hottest months typically fall between August and October.
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The country’s population of roughly nineteen million is predominantly Muslim, with Christian and animist minorities, and ethnic groups including Wolof, Pulaar, Serer, and Lebou. French is the official language, while Wolof is widely spoken; English is limited but growing.
Dakar itself is beautifully layered—grounded yet vibrant—full of art, culture, and delicious cuisine. Live music, art openings and festivals like the Biennale Dakar, one of Africa’s longest-running contemporary art festivals, make life dynamic.
You can find seaside restaurants where a cocktail might cost $15 or eat a generous plate of thieboudienne—Senegal’s national dish consisting of Jollof rice, fish and vegetables—for roughly $7-$18.
Senegal uses the West African CFA franc (XOF), pronounced “say-fa,” and at the time of writing, about 563 FCFA equals one U.S. dollar. Commerce requires FCFA, but cash, local electronic payment apps and credit cards are widely used.
Daily costs are manageable. A quart of milk costs about $2.5, a bottle of wine $6–$12, a whole chicken $6–$8, and a pair of jeans $25–$40. Transportation is inexpensive and straightforward. Taxis and ride-share apps like Yango are widely used, with most trips around Dakar costing just a few dollars.
Housing varies widely. In popular neighborhoods like Ngor, Yoff, Ouakam, Mamelles and Almadies—where many Black women expats settle—apartments can range from $700 to $2,000 a month, depending on the number of rooms, amenities, and proximity to the ocean. Sonia rents a spacious 3-bedroom apartment for $745.
Along the Petite Côte, costs vary as well. When Aisha arrived, her family rented a house in Somone for just $700 a month. Building or buying there is also an option: a modest two-bedroom home might cost $130,000–$160,000. One of Aish’s relatives recently completed a four-bedroom house with a pool for around $250,000. Buying similar homes can cost more depending on finishes and location.
Legally, Senegal is relatively accessible. U.S. citizens may stay for up to 90 days without a visa. Longer stays require a temporary residency permit, typically valid for six months and renewable while a residency card—often taking 12 to 18 months to issue—is processed. Once issued, the card is generally valid for one year and renewed annually.
Senegal, while life-giving, is not all roses. Language barriers can be frustrating. Time moves differently. Things start late. Homesickness can hit hard. Sonia speaks openly about missing her family, even as she builds a new life.
Community helps soften these challenges. There is a strong Black expat community, including the African American Association of Senegal, a Black women’s WhatsApp group, and several Black American businesses, such as Aisha’s The Original Drip Coffee Shop. All the while, Senegalese hospitality—teranga—is warm and welcoming.“That spirit of hospitality makes you feel welcome,” Aisha says. “It just felt like family.”
I can attest to that.
If you’re open, flexible, and willing to meet life halfway, Senegal can be an excellent place to wind down or begin again after 50.
Learn more with these resources
● U.S. Embassy in Senegal – Official guidance for U.S. citizens on visas, residency, safety, health care, and local laws. https://sn.usembassy.gov
● Expat.com – Senegal– Firsthand accounts, Q&A, and practical advice from expats living in or moving to Senegal. https://www.expat.com/en/destination/africa/senegal/
● Numbeo – Cost of Living in Senegal – Crowd-sourced data on housing, groceries, transportation, and everyday expenses. https://www.numbeo.com/cost-of-living/country_result.jsp?country=Senegal
● Properstar (Senegal Listings) – International real estate listings for apartments and homes in Dakar, Saly, Somone, and beyond. https://www.properstar.com/senegal
● African Americans Association of Senegal – A community of Black American expats that hosts events and meetups to foster connection. https://www.aaasenegal.com/
● Time Out Dakar (Instagram) – Local guide to Dakar’s entertainment, culture, restaurants, festivals, and nightlife. https://www.instagram.com/timeoutdakar/v
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